Perugia, city of chocolate
Discover Italy’s secret chocolate capital
Jemma Beedie
Photography: © Eurochocolate + Città del Cioccolato
Wednesday 07 October 2026
This article is from
Best of Italy
issue 67
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With a culture that prioritises good, fresh ingredients, taking the time to enjoy a meal, and with a decidedly sweet tooth, Italy is heaven for gastronomes. For those, like myself, who would find life very grey without a daily dose of chocolate, Perugia is a must-visit.
Perugia’s affiliation with chocolate began in 1907, when the Perugina chocolate factory opened. In 1922 Baci was born, and now the iconic blue foil serves as an icon of Italy – with every flavour of chocolate ‘kiss’ available for the curious. Ever since, Perugia has been inextricably linked with chocolate. There are chocolate shops scattered in every nook and cranny of the city, each as delectable as the specialities they sell.
I discovered this for myself as a young English language tutor with an Italian summer camp in 2011. Navigating the cobbled, ancient lanes, breathing in heady scents of coffee and cocoa, followed by a troupe of duckling children, a little afraid of the sharp-tongued nun who accompanied our every outing; my memories of that summer are steeped in sunlight and sugar. I taught eight-year-olds who began each day with stone fruit and a scoop of Nutella, sweet biscuits dipped in cappuccino.
Each day brought a game or song in English, my Italian co-teachers slipping strong, sweet espresso into my hands mid-morning; evenings at the pool; and mid-way through, an outing, the children holding hands and walking “a due a due” (“two by two”) along dusty roads, variously being corralled back into shape by my exuberant calls of “ragazzi!” (“boys and girls!”). Children do not like to potter, and instead we darted around the Umbrian countryside, keeping cool variously in shaded corners or with strategic gelato.
We spent one wonderful day in Perugia. The surrounding countryside is a stunning verdant dream, and strolling the slight lanes and varying levels of the city is like going back in time.
There are two chocolate museums in the city, as of autumn 2025. The Casa Del Cioccolato is the same factory that opened in the early 20th century by Luisa Spagnoli, an incredible businesswoman who founded not only Perugina, but a line of women’s wear that is still stocked in luxury boutiques more than a century later. Perugina was sold to Nestle in 1988, and the multi-national conglomerate holds the patent and responsibility for producing Baci today.
Città del Cioccolato
An alternative is the brand new Città del Cioccolato. An experimental museum over two floors, visitors are immersed in the history of chocolate and Perugia both, with hands-on activities, artistic depictions, and a deep-dive into the ethics of cocoa.
The City of Chocolate was dreamt up by Eugenio Guarducci, an architect with an unmatched enthusiasm for finding new ways to promote his home-town of Perugia. He is also the man responsible for coming up with Eurochocolate, a ten-day festival celebrating everything chocolate.
“The idea was born 12 years earlier, while I was in Munich for Oktoberfest, the festival dedicated to beer,” he said. “From that moment on, I thought about doing something similar in my own city.” Guarducci went on to learn about event planning, bringing the festival into being in 1993. Today, it hosts chocolate producers from across the globe. It is one of the largest food and drink festivals in Europe and has been extended to host iterations in Rome and Turin. While there are single-origin chocolates and nibs to try, these aren’t the only draw. Street performers, experimental chocolate tastings, and the building of a chocolate igloo keep attendees entertained. Artists sculpt with chocolate, discarding slices of chocolate into an eager crowd, some of whom catch this manna with upturned umbrellas.
This year’s festival takes place from the 13th to 22nd November, a bright spark as autumn turns to slush. Guarducci remains at the helm, which put him in good stead for bringing his plan for an experimental chocolate museum to Perugia.
The project was conceived and developed by Destinazione Cioccolato Srl SB, a benefit corporation founded in 2023 by a group of companies in the cultural-creative, tourism, and social innovation industries, supported by three trade associations and the regional financial institution Gepafin Spa.
Eurochocolate
The mission was to transform Perugia’s historical identity into a permanent chocolate-themed tourist destination, promoting culture, sustainability, and international supply chains. The project is supported by Invitalia, through the Italia Economia Sociale measure of the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy, the first case in Italy of financing a company not belonging to the third sector.
At Citta del Cioccolato, there is fun for all. A slide transports children between floors, and there is the chance to make your own chocolate bar, choosing your favourite toppings. The gift shop stocks chocolate spaghetti, chocolate pizza, and chocolate hamburgers. One huge draw, which should not be missed, is the rooftop terrace bar.
The Chocolate Bar hosts events throughout the year: open-air concerts and swing dance lessons during the Umbria Jazz festival, pilates classes, DJ sets. A novel way to meet locals and fellow visitors alike is to attend a Talk to Strangers event, where language practise – in either direction – is helped along by the smooth drinks.
Drinks on offer include delicious local wines that somehow taste even more special when sipped overlooking an ancient vista. The chocolate cocktails are the stars of the show, though: a Chocolate Fashioned involves whiskey, chocolate liqueur, and chocolate and orange bitters. A Choco Tini blends Perugin chocolate with dry Vermouth and a tart gin. The chocolate version of an Espresso Martini is not to be missed.
Tourist Amit Barkan visited the bar earlier this summer and said, “If you’re into medieval masterpieces, limitless horizons, and a sweet old time, the Chocolate Bar rooftop hits the spot.”
For those that are unable to visit Perugia in the immediate future, there is a way to bring a little of that city’s magic to your own home: match your Wine52 bottles to the best chocolate you can order to your house. 85% dark chocolate with velvety red like Montefalco Sagrantino; a creamy milk chocolate, paired with a sharp, mineral-driven Orvieto Classico.
And if all else fails, a Baci kiss paired with a bottle of sparkling Moscato d’Asti and an evening with your lover is as good as a visit to Italy. Almost.
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