Scots through-and-through
Jacopo Mazzeo chats to Steve Holligan, co-founder of Winton Brewery, about what brought him here, and what motivates him now
Jacopo Mazzeo
Saturday 21 September 2024
This article is from
Scotland
issue 109
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In Britain, we love to complain about the weather. Those nearer the Channel might well enjoy some warm spells, but up north, all the whining about cold, wet, and dreary conditions is entirely justified. So much so that when the sun makes even a brief appearance, it becomes a cause for celebration. The Scots have a term for such rare moments: “It’s ‘taps aff’. It means that when the temperature hits 10°C, people start taking their tops off,” explains Steve Holligan, co-founder of Winton Brewery, shedding light on the inspiration behind his flagship lager’s name.
Like Taps Aff, Winton Brewery’s beers are all named with playful, tongue-in-cheek phrases that pay homage to its location in East Lothian. “Peely-wally literally means ‘pale’, which makes it a fitting name for our pale ale,” says Holligan. Then there’s Pieth of Pith, a 5% IPA brimming with Sicilian blood orange, and Och Aye, a dark mild that is perfect for unwinding after a long day: “It’s the kind of beer you pour when you sit down, kick off your shoes, and say ‘Och Aye’.”
Some names, like Oh Ya Bassa and Oh Ya Can’t – two fruited sours – come straight from the phrasebook of iconic Scottish comedian Billy Connolly. “Oh Ya Bassa means ‘oh, that’s good’, which is a spot-on description of our peach and raspberry sour,” he says.
Mon Then!, the brewery’s New England IPA, completes the brewery’s regular beer lineup. The phrase is essentially a challenge to fight, reflecting the beer’s mission to support Reverse Rett, a charity dedicated to finding a cure for Rett Syndrome. “My niece Eliza has Rett Syndrome, a condition that limits her ability to walk and communicate,” Holligan explains. “This beer helps raise money for those working to find a cure. It’s a small charity, so every contribution counts.”
For the Winton team, highlighting their Scottish heritage is central to the brewery's identity. Indeed, while their beer styles may not be traditional, the brewery is deeply rooted in the region. Not only do beer names draw on regional phrases and cultural references, most of the team is from the area, and the logo, featuring a lion, represents their connection to the country. “There's something great about saying ‘can I have a pint of Peely Wally?’. It just sounds really good,” says Holligan.
However, while Winton’s beer names certainly help create a strong connection with their local audience, the brewery is careful not to appear too insular. Holligan argues that those unfamiliar with the local lingo find the names intriguing; they spark curiosity and conversation, adding depth to the Winton’s story and generating positive reactions once the meanings are revealed.
The brewery’s stylistic focus on modern beers appeals to a wider audience too. The emphasis is on pale ales, sours, and fruited styles, many of which were introduced after the arrival of their current brewer, Liam Feaheny. “Since we launched the first commercial beer in 2017 and up until Liam joined us three years ago, we were mostly brewing pale ales and IPAs, with some experiments in darker styles, but it involved a lot of trial and error,” Holligan admits. “With Liam, everything changed. We’ve achieved a level of consistency and quality that has greatly improved all our beers, refining and polishing them to a new standard.”
Beyond beer styles, many other aspects of the brewery have evolved and improved in recent times. “In the last three to four years, the brewery has seen significant changes,” Holligan reflects. “I used to be a ‘master of no trade’: I worked as an actor, an entertainer, and even as an elf in Lapland. Now, I manage the day-to-day operations at the brewery full-time.” Holligan’s business partner and childhood friend, David Mackinnon, has also taken on a more prominent role, having moved back to the brewery's home base in Haddington to oversee the business’ finances after years spent travelling as an offshore drill engineer.
“We’ve grown a lot, but I like that we’ve stayed accessible to our customers,” Holligan says. “We respond to all social media messages and every query ourselves, we’re still very hands-on with our clients. As a self-funded organisation, we’ve enjoyed a steady, organic growth.”
Recognising the need for a direct outlet to sell their beer, the brewery expanded its operations in 2021 by acquiring a former station master's house in Dunbar, which now serves as the primary outlet for Winton’s beers. At the time, the pub was closed due to the Covid pandemic, but the team saw an opportunity to dodge the challenge in a window that opened into the garden. They began selling takeaway beer through that window, a decision that ultimately saved both the brewery and the pub. “Since then, we’ve made a lot of improvements, and now we’re really proud of the pub we’ve created,” says Holligan.
Opening the pub isn’t just a strategic move to increase beer sales; it also serves as a venue to test new beers and projects, and most importantly, to strengthen connections with the wider regional community. The pub attracts customers from Dunbar, but also Edinburgh and the surrounding areas due to its location on a major train line. It hosts beer festivals with brews from across Scotland and beyond, and events like quiz nights and live music. It also supports local businesses and minimises its environmental impact by sourcing gin, spirits, and other products from independent retailers around Scotland. “It’s all about being more connected and focused on the community,” Holligan points out.
Following the acquisition of the pub, Winton Brewery has continued to strengthen its commitment to the community while broadening its reach. It introduced a taproom adjacent to the production site, which is intentionally simple and functional with basic seating and tables. “Customers appreciate the straightforward setup: it’s relaxed and informal, so you can drop in for a beer right after work without any fuss,” says Holligan, revealing that he is now considering the possibility of opening a second pub in Edinburgh.
As the brewery gears up for further expansion, this new venture aims to solidify its status as a leading Scottish craft brewery and deepen its connection with the broader Scottish community.
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