Delights from dawn to dusk

If I’m staying in Tainan for two or three days, at least one morning is reserved for a visit to A-Xing Savory Porridge, a local shop founded in 1965. Go with friends, and start with a bowl of milkfish belly porridge with fresh oysters (oyster farming is another major industry in Tainan), making it the centrepiece of the table. Then add a few small plates—braised milkfish meatballs, dry-tossed fish belly, and the unmissable ròu sào yóu tiáo (braised pork with crispy fried dough sticks). This is the genius of the Taiwanese street food shop: one big pot of savoury, slow-cooked minced pork belly is used as a base, with tofu, eggs, and fish balls simmering alongside. The braised sauce gets ladled over rice or other ingredients, transforming into a variety of delicious dishes.

Around midday, make sure to try one of Tainan’s most comforting signature dishes: guo shao yì miàn, or Tainan-style pot-boiled noodles. This method of simmering noodles and toppings in a small pot dates back to the Japanese colonial era. The discerning palates of Tainan locals have since taken it further, developing a variety of flavours and ingredients. The noodles are deep-fried before cooking, giving them a delightfully airy texture that soaks up all the savoury goodness of the broth.

My friend Maju keeps a master list of his favourite spots, including Shui Xian Gong Traditional Guo Shao Yi Mian. Originally located inside the Shui Xian Gong market and later relocated to You’ai Street, this shop is known for its clean, umami-packed bonito broth. The standard option is generously topped with shrimp tempura, fried fish slices, fish cake, vegetables, and a soft-boiled egg. Want to take it to the next level? Go for the “secret menu” version with fresh shrimp and squid—besides getting three fat prawns, a whole squid swimming in your bowl is a local seafood highlight.

After a hearty meal, fruits are perfect for digestion. Escaping into a bīng guǒ shìh (traditional Taiwanese fruit and dessert shop) for some freshly sliced fruit, cold-pressed juice, or icy treats made with fruits is practically a survival strategy in scorching southern Taiwan. The climate here is ideal for growing produce, and come summertime, seasonal fruits like mango, bellfruit, papaya, and pineapple are in high demand. 

Yu Cheng Fruit Shop on Minsheng Road may not be the oldest in the city, but with over two decades under its belt, it has become one of the most popular destinations. We shared a large platter of seasonal fruits, customised based on the number of diners and how hungry you are. We also couldn’t resist their picture-perfect pudding milk ice: two silky egg puddings flipped atop a mountain of shaved ice, drenched in condensed milk and syrup. 

After a whole afternoon of exploring temples, historical sites and traditional markets, it’s time to kick off the evening at Hong Pin Beef Soup, located near the Tainan City Hall. As mentioned before, in Tainan, certain foods aren’t tied to a specific time of day—some people start their mornings with beef soup to wake up, while others gather around a bubbling pot of beef hotpot at night. 

Hong Pin is spacious and versatile, with a wide-ranging menu that accommodates both large groups and solo diners looking to indulge in a few stir-fried side dishes. As you enter, you’ll spot various cuts of freshly slaughtered local beef hanging in the display fridge. At the table, each guest gets their own slotted ladle to dip thin slices of raw beef into a boiling pot of beef bone broth. You decide the doneness, cooking each bite to your taste. A refrigerator nearby is stocked with ingredients for the hotpot—vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, meatballs, and a lot more—available for self-service. Taiwanese hotpot culture values balance, and grabbing a few plates to accompany the beef is the local way to do it right.

With a full belly, it's time to dive into the warm embrace of Tainan’s nightlife. Founded by renowned bartender Yi-Xiang Huang (A-Xiang), Bar TCRC is arguably the city’s most iconic bar, earning international acclaim with two appearances on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list. The bar boasts a collection of over 300 whiskies and is celebrated for its inventive cocktails that reflect local Tainan flavours. But the most delightful way to experience TCRC is to sit at the bar and let the bartenders tailor a drink just for you, based on your personal taste.

A-Xiang’s latest venture, Bar Home, quickly became another hot spot after opening. Unlike the cozy and intimate TCRC, Bar Home is housed in a spacious yet understated old building.

Its retro-meets-modern interior feels like stepping into a stylish grown-up’s living room. The cocktail menu dazzles with inventive flavour pairings, further proving A-Xiang’s status as southern Taiwan’s most celebrated mixologist.

As the night deepens and we step out from the bar, Taiwan’s vibrant late-night food scene is built to satiate our post-drink cravings. On Minzu Road, A-Jiang’s Stir-Fried Eel Noodles has been a go-to for over 40 years. The menu is simple, and the signature dish—dry-fried eel noodles—is legendary. Freshly sliced eel is seared over high heat to bring out that tempting wok hei, while deep-fried noodles soak up the sweet and tangy sauce. 

Still not quite ready to call it a night? Right across the street, Shang-Hao Grilled Lu Wei offers one last indulgence. This brilliant food stand combines two beloved Taiwanese cooking methods: braise and grill. Ingredients are first slow-cooked in flavourful spiced soy sauce-based stock, then grilled to order, brushed with a signature glaze, and flame-kissed for extra aroma. Grab a few skewers to go—it's the perfect way to wrap up the night. And as you walk back to the hotel, you’ll probably start counting: just how many meals did I have today?