Higher ground

When you're brewing in New Zealand, the best results come from working with what's on your doorstep.

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In Queenstown, on the water’s edge of New Zealand’s Lake Wakatipu, is Altitude Brewing’s taproom The Little Red Shed. It's stunning all year round, thanks to New Zealand’s uncanny ability to make any sort of weather look good. In winter, the snow-capped mountains of the Remarkables range give off an aprés ski vibe for the winter sports crowd; in the spring and summer, unfiltered sunshine drips golden and honeyed on everyone in the beer garden or splashing about in the lake. It’s the best taproom view in the world, they say, and it’s hard to argue with them.

Eddie Gapper and Eliott Menzies built Altitude in 2013 and it quickly became a vital part of the Aotearoa beer scene. Bringing great beer to Lake Wakatipu was the main aim — no gimmicks, just a perfect combination of local ingredients and daring tastes inspired by the adventure sports that happen all around. The decor of the taproom is inspired by what goes on in the mountains and countryside all around too, with snowboard tables and gear bits and bobs all over the walls and hanging from the ceiling. Then, there’s the brewery, with its 1200-litre brew kit that’s on view for all to see. The two friends also committed to supporting their local area with their brewery by locking in a 1% donation of their gross revenue for community groups and charities the Wakatipu Reforestation Trust, Wild for Nature Trust, and Queenstown Mountain Bike Club.

Making beer in New Zealand means having access to some of the most coveted hops in the world right at your front door. For Altitude Brewing, this has absolutely influenced the way they brew. While they are fortunate to have impeccable ingredients at their fingertips, there is competition from breweries all over the map. Everyone wants NZ hops. They’re that distinctive, that good. Does this mean sometimes they find themselves without?


“We have had to make sure we get our selections in with as accurate forecasts as possible,” says Eliott, sharing that while there is something of a clamour for New Zealand hops and therefore a bit of a shortage, they’ve been able to keep on top of it by being flexible. Seeing opportunity instead of a problem, Altitude Brewing uses local hops from smaller farms as well as the larger producers to supplement and diversify their supply. “Demand is causing some lots and entire varieties to sell out overseas. In saying that we haven’t changed in our approach because of this—we are still committed to our region and our community and as local as we can get with all our ingredients.”

This commitment to its local region is what keeps its beer unique in an industry where craft beer has all but saturated even the most remote of markets. Its regulars know that everything they’re drinking at the Barn is made from local ingredients, fresh and individual to their area. What a beautiful thing, then, to have some of the most sought-after hops as your local crop.

Outside of the brewery, working with the wider New Zealand hop producer network is part of what makes New Zealand’s beer scene what it is. Hops here are not a distant product being shipped fairly anonymously—the country is full of cooperatives with independent growers and producers bringing their own hops to the table.

“I would say being able to form great relationships that are easy to maintain with all our growers/suppliers/workers is what makes the New Zealand hop scene special,” says Eliott. “It’s a critical part of knowledge and supply that we don't get from our overseas contracts so much.”

A crucial part of that knowledge being shared is how different hop growers and producers in New Zealand are leaning more heavily into ideas of terroir and growing hops to bring out specific flavour or aromatic traits. The more complex the hops become, the more important it is for producers to share their insights with the brewers who are using them.

“We love to lean into the hop forward styles with these new hops,” Eliott says. “Most NZ hops, especially the new ones, are targeted at intensity and so New Zealand Pils, West Coast Pils, NZIPA and Hazy IPA are all top shelf prospects.


“We have also had some good success in using Garston grown hops,” Eliott adds, referring to the Garston hop farm in the far south of New Zealand where the weather is dry and the summer days are long and sunny. “Their crops are more old skool stuff like Green Bullet and Fuggle. In some classic styles the different terroir gives some real unique interpretations.”

That intensity of flavour and bitterness is precisely why New Zealand hops have gained such a reputation in the rest of the world, and why hops like Nelson Sauvin and Waimea are so desirable. This combination that Altitude Brewing looks for, a split somewhere between adventurously bold and delicious, traditional-style beers is what makes their collaboration with Siren for Time Hops so interesting. There’s a thread that runs through everything Altitude does, and it’s one of locality and purpose. Its beers aren’t experimental for experiment’s sake — it wants to brew beers locals enjoy and that make sense in the environment. Bringing that locality to the UK with Siren Craft is going to be a challenge, but one both breweries will relish.

As for what might be Altitude’s best seller, Eliott says there’s a clear favourite among his regulars.

“Most people would say Sled Dog, our session hazy, is the best beer we brew. But I would put forward Powder Day our NZ pils. I love the way we have tweaked and crafted this to be a beautiful expression of NZ character with our own local twist.”

Snow, sun, beers and tight collaboration. Brewing in New Zealand sounds like an absolute dream. Hopefully Siren Craft doesn’t mind that, even though it's bringing that NZ spirit and sunshine to local shores, the team will be staying at home to brew the collab recipe.

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