A long Dezemba

Cape Town is known for its dramatic landscapes, rolling winelands, and slightly slower pace of life. It prioritises play, evident by the sight of surfers paddling out into the ocean in the middle of any given weekday. That attitude only heightens when the clock strikes summer. Table Mountain, one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature, blooms yellow and purple, the seas glisten a bright blue and the air is thick with the scent of braai (our version of a barbecue).

There are many ways to spend a perfect Dezemba day in Cape Town. From the vibrant inner city scene to the serene Deep South, here is how I like to enjoy summer days in the city that I can’t seem to get enough of.

A day in the inner city

The best summer days should start outside and early. If you’re anything like me – a slave to the snooze button – the latter can sound daunting, but the city at sunrise is always worth it. With a rising heat already in the air, the morning calls for an ocean dip. 

Cape Town is flanked by two oceans, the Atlantic and the Indian, and the peninsula that falls within the city limits is dotted with tidal pools that attract early morning, cold water enthusiasts year round. My day usually starts in the City Bowl, so named for the amphitheatre-esque mountain range that encircles the inner city suburbs. The City Bowl lies on the Atlantic seaboard, meaning this ocean swim will be icy.

A good spot for an early morning dip should be two things: easy to jump into and close to a coffee shop. And it’s never a bad idea to build up a bit of a sweat before your cold plunge too. Checking all these boxes is the tidal pool at Saunders’ Rocks Beach. Situated at the end of the Sea Point Promenade, a picturesque walkway along the coastline, it is the ideal finish line for a casual jog or leisurely stroll. The pool sits snug in between two larger rocks that the stronger of heart can jump from into the open sea. The rest of us can slip into the protected pool from its low walls while receiving encouragement from the regular group of retirees, who will always assure you that the water is actually quite lovely once you put your head under.

Once your nervous system has been thoroughly regulated, it’s time for a hot coffee. Saunders’ is a 10-minute walk away from Kleinsky’s Delicatessen, a beloved deli known for its traditionally-made bagels and hearty breakfasts that give a contemporary spin on the Jewish classics Sea Point is known for – think challah French toast and eggs benedict served on crispy potato latke. 

Cape Town is a home to many. Its rich history is held in the various cultures, languages, architecture and food found here. When spending a summer day in the inner city, you’d be remiss to not take a stroll through the Bo-Kaap, an area known for its brightly coloured houses, historical significance, and comforting Cape Malay cuisine – a fusion of African, Indonesian, Malaysian and Indian flavours. Sides of yellow rice are served alongside hearty, aromatic curries, finished off with a koe’sister – a deep-fried, doughy dessert, drenched in spiced syrup and dusted with coconut.

Traditional food is best enjoyed in a family home, prepared by an auntie whose samoosa recipe has been passed down from her great-great-grandparents. Faeeza Abrahams, founder of Faeeza’s Home Kitchen, is Bo-Kaap’s auntie. The doors to her purple house are open to all those interested in the secrets of Cape Malay flavours, or who just want to enjoy a homemade meal and stories from those who have lived in the area for generations. 

After an afternoon of good food, stretching your legs on a mountain path will help you prepare for the evening ahead. Just a 10-minute drive from the Bo-Kaap will bring you to the base of Lion’s Head, an iconic peak that sits next to Table Mountain. It’s a moderate hike which guarantees a panoramic view of the sunset over the city. Packing a cooler box of ice cold drinks to enjoy at the top is encouraged.

If you’re not keen to summit a mountain, the next best sunset spot is Barley Bay. Sitting under the cinematic Twelve Apostles mountain range, its easily-missed entry point will lead you down to a small, shell-covered beach. After a hot day, the cool waters of Barley are a welcome refresher. 

For dinner and drinks, head down the road to Arthur’s Mini Super, a superette-cum-mini-bar. Arthur’s stocks an exciting rotation of local wines, beers and your favourite cocktails – all to be enjoyed under the light of its ever-spinning disco ball.

A day in the winelands

Over the mountain, 20 minutes out of the City Bowl, lie the Constantia Winelands. This collection of historic winelands includes Groot Constantia, a wine farm that was keenly supported by Napoleon Bonaparte during his exile in St Helena.

Following an active day in the City Bowl, a day spent lazing in the winelands comes highly recommended by Dezemba experts. The lawns of Buitenverwachting wine farm open in the summer months for wine-enthusiasts to enjoy curated tastings and Dezemba-enthusiasts to enjoy multiple bottles on the grass, paired with good friends and picnic platters overflowing with fresh bread, cheeses, plump olives and homemade preserves.

Bring a day in the winelands to a close with an evening braai. A South African braai is a cherished part of the culture. More than just a way of preparing food, it’s a means of celebration. A braai is lit on birthdays, at Christmas, for wakes and, of course, for every rugby match. The preparation of the fire and sharing of drinks over the embers is as important to a braai as cooking the food is – if not more. 

A day in the Deep South

One thing that makes the busyness of any city experience all the more enjoyable, is knowing that an escape from it isn’t too far away. The small fishing village and suburb of Kalk Bay, like the winelands, is just a 30-minute drive (or very scenic train ride) out of the City Bowl. It lies at the beginning of what the locals call the Deep South of Cape Town, a bohemian surfing haven that stretches along the Indian Ocean.

Kalk Bay visits should kick off with a swim at either the Dalebrook or St James tidal pools. The morning is then open to exploring the antique shops that line the main street and watching Cape fur seals doze along the pier. A fresh seafood lunch at the Brass Bell is a must. The restaurant sits right on the water’s edge, offering a stunning view of the sea and waves crashing right onto the windows. 

Silvermine Nature Reserve is an idyllic spot to recline after lunch. The reserve is carpeted with indigenous plantlife – fynbos – and centres around a large reservoir. As you enter the reserve, you are relieved from cellphone reception and can spend the rest of your afternoon lazing next to the water or exploring Elephant’s Eye, a cave that sits a short hike from the entrance.

The final stop on every Deep South outing should be Aegir Project Brewery, a taproom found in the tranquil suburb of Noordhoek. From the taps, you’ll be enjoying Aegir Project’s premium, small-batch brews, with options for novice and veteran beer drinkers alike. Ordering a tasting tray for the table is the best way to find your ideal pint. From the kitchen, their handstretched, sourdough pizzas shouldn’t be skipped. 

Year after year, the unique energy of Cape Town’s Dezemba never seems to fade. There is always more to explore, another beautiful sunset to watch or a cold tidal pool to brave. And if you can’t make it to Cape Town in December, don’t worry: Dezemba runs through to mid-March – sometimes later if the Springboks have anything to say about it.