British brewed sours that give the Belgians a run for their money

Famed Beer Writer Michael Jackson, the man who literally wrote the book on modern beer styles, once cited Rodenbach Grand Cru as ‘the most refreshing beer in the world’ – an unusual statement some might think for a reddish-brown beer with pronounced tartness and vinous, port-like complexity. But think about this, what is the flavour of sweet, dark cherries without its background tartness? Or the juiciness of orange without that balancing zing of pith and aroma of zest? That same tartness brings balance to otherwise overly sweet desserts, lifting the flavours of Tarte au Citron or Key Lime Pie and creating something moreish, light, refreshing.

In the same way that white wine benefits from some acidity, sour beers tread a fine balance between fruit, sweet, sour and juicy, but can also be funky, dry, aromatic and peppery – or in the case of Flemish Brown ales like the aforementioned Rodenbach, can have an intense fruity acidity, like an aged balsamic. 

This variety and complexity meant for a long time it was Belgian brewers that led the way in the World of sour beer, with the tradition kept alive by breweries like Cantillon - makers of the World’s finest Gueuze beers. But when craft brewing began to flourish in America their brewers decided to get in on the action, with the likes of New Belgium, Allagash and The Bruery now famed for their World Class sour beers.

In Britain it has taken a little longer for sour beers to become common, partly because it is such a difficult skill for brewers to master, and a risky endeavour to undertake – wild yeast or bacteria from a sour beer making its way into your regular brews could spell disaster on an epic scale. But also because it takes a while for sour beers to really grab you, very few people are bowled over by their first sip, but it is a flavour that grows on you and demands a repeat visit - and before you know it, you’re hooked.

2017 seemed to be a turning point, where sour beer truly found it’s place in British independent craft beer bars, on our beer shelves, and in beer lovers' fridges across the UK.

One such beer that proved to be a surprise hit with customers of Magic Rock Brewery in Huddersfield was their now permanent Gooseberry Gose ‘Salty Kiss’. Starting life as a one off, it is a flavour that grows on you and demands a repeat visit collaboration with Anders Kissmeyer of Kissmeyer Beer, the beer is described as having a ‘tart, lightly sour, fruity and refreshing flavour with a defined saltiness’. It proved so popular it is now a permanent fixture in an already strong range of regulars.

Another British brewer that has made sour beer a staple of their range is Burning Sky brewery in East Sussex, who’s Saison a la Provision is a masterclass in balance and refinement. After a primary fermentation with saison yeast this beer undergoes a secondary fermentation in wooden barrels with Lactobacillus and Brettonamyces – creating a complex beer that is tart, crisp, slightly sour – and incredibly refreshing.

Of course, if you’re looking for a taste of what Michael Jackson was talking about then why not seek out Old Brown from Mad Hatter brewery in Liverpool or Modus Operandi from Wild Beer Co in Somerset – a brewery who have made a name for themselves by producing wild, exciting and often sour or spontaneously fermented beers.  

Britain’s independent craft brewers will be looking for top spots in the new sour & spontaneously fermented beer categories introduced by SIBA for their Independent Beer Awards in 2018 – keep a look out for winners of regional awards near you.