XX Hits the Spot

To mark International Women’s Day on 8 March, Bristol based brewer Wiper and True released a new, limited edition beer, make entirely by its female workers – from brewing to finance and marketing.

Born out of a desire to celebrate women in all aspects of beer production, XX – named in reference to the female chromosome (in men, this is mucked up by the presence of a Y) – is a crisp, refreshingly tart gooseberry wheat beer. This springtime lovechild of an all-women project is brewed with botanicals in tribute to the rich history of women in the beer industry.

Despite the contemporary gendering of beer production as a predominantly masculine occupation, prior to widespread industrialisation in the UK, brewing was an altogether feminine responsibility (see Ferment #18). Back when water often carried disease and beer was the preferred alternative, it was female ‘alewives’ who brewed for the family and profited from the excess. Whether at home, in the marketplace, or at alehouses, these women were savvy traders who effectively paved the way for the development of commercial breweries.

Historically, alewives have been associated with the broomsticks, which they are believed to have hung above their doorways as a signpost to their wares. Accordingly, it has been suggested that the stereotype we now associate with witches in fact derives from these early brewers. Some argue that tall pointy hats made them visible in busy marketplaces and that the image of the ominously bubbling cauldron comes from its use as a primitive kind of brew-kettle. Certainly, the early-modern housewife had a propensity for adding remedial properties to her beer. At a time when little was understood about disease and women were already mistrusted by a highly patriarchal society, effective medicinal brewing might indeed raise dangerous questions.

While alewives traditionally used botanicals not only to preserve and flavour their beers, but also to remedy in this way, Wiper and True makes use of the delicate floral notes of native Heather and Meadowsweet to complement the tart fruitiness of their gooseberry wheat beer. The effect is not only a delicious addition, but a sentimental nod to the role of the alewives in the history of brewing.    

As well as positive commemoration of women in beer, Victoria Helsby, of Wiper and True’s sales and marketing department, describes XX as the team’s contribution to the ongoing debate on gender in the industry.

In a bid to combat the negativity surrounding this debate, Helsby stresses that project XX is fuelled by positivity. “Run entirely by women, from brewing to packaging and forklifting the beer for delivery, XX seeks to challenge harmful stereotypes about the role of women in the industry.”

Ultimately, Wiper and True presents XX as a resolute, but overwhelmingly positive reminder that women are not only present in the industry, but that they are absolutely owning it.

In accordance with the motivations driving this project, part of the profits from the sales of XX will go to Bristol Women’s Voices, a charity which supports Bristolian women in their fight for uncompromising equality.